They used to be known as the Outer Hebrides; today they are called the Western Isles, and to the locals they are the Long Islands.
Whatever you call them the Outer Hebrides are one of the most remote and beautiful areas of Scotland, over which hangs the long and sometimes bloody history of a place that has been inhabited for more than 6,000 years.
Western Isles - Lewis and Harris
Lewis and Harris are spoken of as two separate islands but they are actually joined by a tiny strip of land. Lewis is the largest and the two and a half hour ferry trip from Ullapool dropped us off in the capital of the island, Stornaway. Once just a collection of rough huts, Stornaway grew up around the castle of the major Lewis clan
Once you leave the green oasis of Stornoway there’s barely a tree to be seen. Don’t expect picture-postcard prettiness in these islands. There’s a wild bleakness here which can either disconcert or entrance; scrubby moors stretch for miles, scarred and criss-crossed by peat diggings, gardens are empty of flowers or vegetables and neat piles of peat are stacked to dry again.
Western Isles - Beautiful Beaches
Uig has some fabulous beaches. At Bernie Sands the shining white beach is created from powdered shells, wave-crushed over the centuries. Razor clam shells are everywhere, delicately patterned in stripes of pink and beige.
We crossed into Harris. The first impression is of a softer landscape, but overall not any more traditionally beautiful than Lewis. The real character of Harris is to be found on the coast. On the road from Plockropool to Luskentyre Beach I suddenly saw a triangle of deep turquoise appear at the end of the road. I couldn’t believe my eyes, especially when the triangle turned into a scene right out of a Caribbean holiday poster - brilliant white sandy beaches fringed by an
ocean of the most brilliant blue - and nobody there but us. This part of of theisland has dozens of beautiful beaches, from tiny coves to great long stretches of sand.
Western Isles - Harris Tweed
The famous tweed cloth of Scotland is, of course, named after Harris, although the majority of it nowadays is woven on Lewis. But on both islands the clack of looms can be heard. Harris tweed must be made in the Hebrides and it must be hand woven by the islanders at their own homes - otherwise it is not entitled to be called Harris Tweed.
Gaelic
Gaelic (pronounced” Gallic”) is spoken in the Western Isles, but most people are bi-lingual. Legend says Gaelic was the language spoken in the Garden of Eden. With its gentle cadence it is sweet to the ear. “Failte” - the world for “welcome” is as soft as a butterfly’s wing, and they mean it.
Read my article on the Mull of Kintyre
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