Tam o' Shanter Haunts in Alloway, Scotland
Places Connected with Robert Burns' Famous Character around Ayrshire
Sep 29, 2009
Robert Burns was born in Alloway in Ayrshire and his long poem, Tam o’ Shanter, which was written in1790, is set in and about that area. It is an excellent poem for reciting aloud, especially around Halloween, as it is a cautionary tale about witches and warlocks and devilish dances.
Tam o' Shanter Inn, Ayr
The lines near the beginning of the poem set the scene for the tale of Tam o’ Shanter, the honest husband, who is about to leave the hostelry inn at Ayr to start the journey home on his faithful grey mare, Maggie (or Meg). Unfortunately, Tam has been enjoying himself a bit too much with his great friend, Souter Johnny, by his side and he finally leaves the inn late into the evening.
The inn was built in 1749 and it is still right in the middle of the main street in Ayr town. Robert Burns himself often frequented it, as Tam does in the poem. The entrance to the inn bears a picture of Tam about to mount his faithful mare on the fateful night, with a few lines from the poem on the wall beside it: “This truth fand honest Tam o’Shanter, as he frae Ayr ae night did canter.” There is also a miniature plaster head of Tam and Souter Johnny on the wall on either side of the door.
Auld Kirk (Old Church) Alloway
Kate, Tam’s wife knows her husband’s predilection for drink and had warned him about what might happen one of these nights. Her warning words come true as Tam finds himself riding through the worst of Scottish weather, with showers, high winds, thunder and lightening.
On reaching the auld Kirk at Alloway, Tam sees an astonishing sight. There, in the churchyard, warlocks and witches are dancing and having fun. And right in the middle is the devil providing the music. Instead of Tam turning and riding quickly home, he gets more and more caught up in the skirl of the pipes and the whirling dancers. Amongst the old crones, one "winsome wench" in particular catches his eye: Nannie, in her old Paisley patterned shift. Tam is soon mesmerised by the sight.
Losing all sense of fear and reason, Tam gets carried away by the moment and, unable to be silent any longer, he roars out: ‘Weel done, Cutty-sark!’ There is an immediate halt to the revelry and Tam suddenly realises he is now in mortal danger.
Visitors can still stand in the same churchyard of the ruined auld Kirk where Tam watched the devilish dancers. This is the same churchyard where Robert Burns’ father is buried. The tombstone also mentions his mother, Agnes Brown, although she was interred in a churchyard in East Lothian. A pre-reformation church, the auld Kirk was built around 1516, then rebuilt in 1653. It ceased to be used for regular services by the end of the 17th century when the parish was annexed to Ayr.
The Auld Brig (Old Bridge) Over the River Doon
Tam soon escapes the devilish scene, clutching on to his horse as the mare flees the churchyard closely followed by the witches. There is only one hope for them both. They must reach the bridge over the River Doon before the witches reach them. Tam knows that witches and evil spirits do not have the power to follow their prey beyond the middle of the next running stream.
On they ride, and they are almost at the key stone of the bridge. But Nannie is away ahead of the other witches and makes one last attempt to catch Tam, grabbing at Meg’s tail. The heroic mare keeps on running and Tam escapes the witch’s clutches over the Brig o’ Doon. But at the cost of his Meg’s tail, which is now in the hands of the witch!
The same bridge, dating from about the 15th century, stands there today and the River Doon still flows beneath it. Visitors can walk across it, just like Tam fled across on his mare. Although a new bridge was built in 1813, admirers of Burns fortunately managed to prevent the auld brig from being demolished.
Robert Burns Heritage Park, Alloway in Ayrshire
Alloway itself is a lovely little village, now home to the Robert Burns Heritage Park. The 70 feet high Burns Monument, situated in the beautiful gardens, was eventually completed in 1823. The foundation stone was laid on the 25th January 1820, the 61st anniversary of Burns birth.
Robert Burns’ cottage is also situated in the Heritage Park. Dating from 1757, it was built by Burns’ father, William Burnes, and it is now open to the public.
For anyone wanting to hear the story of Tam o’ Shanter, there is the Audio-Visual 'Tam o’ Shanter Experience' in the Visitor’s Centre, which also houses a restaurant and gift shop. It is a good way to become acquainted with Burns' well-loved character.
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