Often referred to as the Garden of the Hebrides, (Locals boast some 1,000 varieties of wildflowers), the scenery of Barra is a mix of heather-clad meadows, sandy beaches, rocky bays, peaks and sandy grasslands.
The small island of Barra sits at the southern end of the Western Isles, measuring only five miles across and eight miles long, and is known for its fishing, tourism, toffee, and festivals. Linked to the beautiful island of Vatersay by a man-made causeway, the combined population of the two islands is around 1,300. The Gaels living here speak both English and Gaelic.
Attractions in Barra
There are a number of archaeological sights to see on the island, including the early settlements at Alt Chrisal and Dun Cuier. A neolithic chambered burial cairn or passage grave can be found at Dun Bharpa. There are also a few standing stones on the island, but no complete circles: A small stone is located at Borve machair; Brevig Bay is the most dramatic, but its partner is fallen beside it; and on the island of Vatersay is another stone assembly.
The 12th century church and cemetery of St. Barr's is located at the north end of the island. The restored north chapel houses several medieval tombs.
A thatched Cottage Museum can be found at the end of Craigston village and a Heritage Center in Castlebay.
The main attraction in Barra, however, is Kisimul Castle or what the locals refer to as the ‘Castle in the Sea’.
Kisimul Castle
Standing proud upon its rocky base, surrounded by the waters of Castlebay, is Kisimul Castle, known for having never fallen to an enemy. Kisimul was the stronghold of the MacNeils of Barra, who were infamous for piracy and lawlessness, and led by chiefs like Ruari the Turbulent, 35th Chief, who seized the ships of Queen Elizabeth I, until he was eventually brought up on charges for piracy.
The origins of the castle are obscure and generally dated to the fifteenth century, but several experts conclude that Kisimul belongs to the thirteenth century, and suggest that the keep is a twelfth century structure. What is for certain is Kisimul is the only surviving significant medieval castle in the Western Isles.
The main residence of the castle is a three-story tower house, which offers a beautiful view of the bay. Surrounding a small courtyard, additional buildings include a watchman’s house, an heir’s house, a feasting hall, and a chapel. Near the postern gate is a well that fed the castle’s inhabitants fresh water from an underground seam. The foundations of the crew house can be found outside the curtain wall beside the original landing-place. Here, the sailors manning their chief’s galley would have had their quarters.
In 2001, the current clan chief leased the castle to Historic Scotland for 1000 years. The rent is £1 a year and a bottle of whisky.
The castle is open to the public from April through October, but as travel to and from the castle is by boat it is weather permitting.
Accommodation on Barra
There are a number of hotels on the island (Isle of Barra Hotel recommended), as well as good bed and breakfasts.
Camping on the island guarantees a spectacular view. While there are no official campsites on either Barra or Vatersay, there are areas where people are permitted to park their motor homes or pitch a tent with varying degrees of amenities and services.
Getting to and from Barra
Unique to Barra is its airport. The island is the only one in the world where scheduled flights land on a beach and its runway is washed by the sea. The beach is set out with three runways all marked by wooden poles. There are regular flights to and from Glasgow and Benbecula, but flight times vary with the tide.
Vehicle ferries (Caledonian Macbrayne) sail from the mainland at Oban, and from Barra to the northern island of Eriksay (now linked to South Uist by causeway) all year round, although there are fewer sailings in the winter months.
Sources:
- Historic Scotland Online
- Isle of Barra
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