Central Edinburgh seems designed to be on postcards. With its stunning architecture and castle, sitting atop an extinct volcano, it is an exquisite scene. Scotland's capital may seem like an idyllic place but it has not always been so. Within easy walking distance of the castle are many reminders of far darker aspects of the city's history. The three locations here offer a glimpse into Edinburgh's sometimes unhappy past.
South Bridge Vaults - Accommodation for Edinburgh's Underworld
The road which links the Cowgate with the Grassmarket passes under a single arch of an 18th century bridge, but it is only a tiny part of the original structure. South Bridge actually has a span of 19 arches, but only one remains visible. The rest disappeared from view as buildings sprung up on either side. Eventually the arches were modified to provide accommodation for people and businesses. Poor weather-proofing meant that they were quickly abandoned by reputable businesses. In their place came criminals, prostitutes, drinking dens and the poor. In time they too left and the vaults were forgotten for two centuries. They are now open again and tours are available. They offer a fascinating glimpse into a bygone age and are reputedly haunted by several old tenants.
Burke and Hare - Infamous Criminals
Notorious body snatchers Burke and Hare were reputed to have visited the South Bridge vaults to find victims for their gruesome trade. The Irish labourers were not content with digging up bodies from churchyards, finding it far quicker to murder people and sell their cadavers to local medical schools.
The duo were eventually arrested but the police had to offer Hare immunity from prosecution in order for him to give the evidence they needed. While Hare escaped death Burke was hanged at the Lawnmarket on Edinburgh's Royal Mile. Today, tourists can see a macabre souvenir of the event at the Police Information Centre on the Royal Mile. A business card case made from Burke's skin.
Covenanter's Prison - Too Scary for Edinburgh's Ghost Tours
Greyfriar's Kirkyard, two minutes walk from the Grassmarket, is best known for the story of the little dog that would not leave his master's grave. The touching story is commemorated by a statue of the dog, Greyfriar's Bobby, outside the churchyard. Visitors who walk around to the far side of the churchyard will discover a far more sinister section.
The covenanters were a group of people who objected to the Stuart Dynasty's claim that they were the heads of the Church of Scotland, above God. Eventually their actions led to a battle with the forces of King Charles II. Survivors were arrested and imprisoned in Greyfriar's Kirkyard where many died. Ironically, the judge who sentenced many of the covenanters, known as, 'Bluidy MacKenzie', was himself buried in a mausoleum near to the prison. It is he who is blamed for several reported attacks on visitors. The situation became so serious that Edinburgh Council banned ghost tours from visiting that part of the churchyard.
All of these locations are within ten minutes walk of each other. During peak season it is advisable to book tours of the South Bridge Vaults in advance. There are several tours each day. Entry to the Police Information Centre and Greyfriar's Kirkyard is free.
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